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Teddy boys: fluffy dad-core fleeces are making a comeback

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Like Crocs and Birkenstocks, fleeces are enjoying a golden era. Designers from Off-White to Hermès and Dior have propelled the outdoor-only aesthetic into a more desirable streetwear item. The once fusty dad-core piece has come a long way since the late 70s when Patagonia’s founder, Yvon Chouinard, explored using the fabric, eventually partnering with Massachusetts-based fabric maker Malden Mills, now Polartec, to create the first fleece.

A model on the catwalk at Dior Mens fall 2023
Dior Mens Fall 2023 Photograph: Giovanni Giannoni/WWD/Getty Images

Patagonia’s El Capitan style, named after the California summit, is the fleece OG but for a thicker version the brand’s Retro-X Fleece style is a nice addition to the oeuvre (£175, workingclassheroes.co.uk). Passenger’s Trekker recycled polyester sherpa fleece with corduroy detail is another off-trail for every day piece, (£114.95, passenger-clothing.com). “If in doubt go Scandi” is a style rule that rarely fails, especially with this category. Danish brand Rains’s Kofu style is extra thick and warm (8), negating the need for outerwear on chilly days.

Performance brands like 66°North and The North Face do fleeces really well but for a fancier fashion edge seek out Heresy, whose folkloric design (3), comes with matching trousers. It would be remiss to talk about fleeces and not mention Drake’s or Aimé Leon Dore, who regularly headline menswear style blogs. Prices are premium, so steal the styling tips and pick up a pocket-friendly one on the high street. Cos’s grey option (5), can be styled over a white shirt with black trousers and Chelsea boots for a look that doesn’t say hike.

Brown fleece, £69.99, zara.com

1. Brown £69.99, zara.com

Carharrt WIP Fleece at MATCHES

2. Prentis £185, Carhartt WIP, matchesfashion.com

Herdsman fleece, £185, heresy.ltd

3. Herdsman £185, heresy.ltd

Wayside fleece, £119, kavu, endclothing.com

4 Wayside £119, Kavu, endclothing.com

Grey fleece, £115, cosstores.com

5. Grey, £115, cosstores.com

Pattern fleece, £180, gramicci.co.uk

6. Pattern £180, gramicci.co.uk

Green fleece, £97, arket.com

7. Green £97, arket.com

Beacon Starling Fleece, £129, barbour.com

8. Beacon Starling, £129, barbour.com

Camo fleece, £215, uk.rains.com

9. Camo £215, uk.rains.com

Leopard fleece, £105, uk.puma.com

10. Leopard £105, uk.puma.com

Navy khaki fleece, £349, couvertureandgrabstore.com

11. Navy khaki £349, couvertureandgrabstore.com

Misty sage leave fleece

12. Extreme pile, £140, thenorthface.co.uk

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